By Julia Döhler
Camperstory submission October 2024
Seventeen days of living and sleeping together in a mini camper might sound like a big challenge at first. But in the end, it turned out to be the most amazing 17 days we could have ever imagined.
Arrival
I can still remember the excitement I felt when our little FIAT Doblo Maxi pulled up, and we saw our new home-on-wheels for the first time. There’s something surreal about knowing your bedroom is with you wherever you go. And just like that, we set off into a land full of possibilities. Our first destination? Of course, we had to see the active volcano near the airport. How many times in life do you get the chance to witness something like that? Watching the lava flow and feeling the sheer power of nature up close was insane. That moment alone gave my husband and me a deep understanding of why Iceland is called “The Land of Ice and Fire.”
After a long day of travel and excitement, it was time to find our first campsite and test the camper’s mattress and sleeping bags—along with one very important feature for a September trip in Iceland: the heater. Cozy and well-equipped, we slept wonderfully in our new four-wheeled bedroom. All we needed now was to establish some kind of routine—how to stay organized in such a small space and avoid chaos during the morning and evening routines. Luckily, we had plenty of time to figure it out.
Westfjords
We decided to head to the Westfjords first, a part of Iceland often skipped by many travelers due to the long distances and rough roads. But we hoped to catch a glimpse of some puffins at Látrabjarg. Unfortunately, we were too late in the season. Instead, we stood atop towering cliffs, watching massive waves crash below while trying not to get blown off by the strong winds!
Driving so far west was absolutely worth it, though. For one, we went hours without seeing another car, giving us the chance to fully soak in the pure, untouched beauty of Iceland. And then there was the Dynjandifoss waterfall. Iceland is famous for its breathtaking waterfalls, but seeing the first one in person was something else entirely. The fact that we were traveling in our small camper was a huge advantage here—we arrived long before the tourist buses and had the waterfall entirely to ourselves for two hours.
What still amazes me is how much we saw and experienced in just one day. It’s almost impossible to list everything. From the airport to the Westfjords, the landscape seemed to change twenty times, leaving us awestruck after every turn. You might think that driving long distances would be exhausting—we covered over 4200 kilometers in total—but in Iceland, the saying “the journey is the destination” couldn’t be more true.
North
Our route continued through endless fjords, past Akureyri and the stunning Goðafoss waterfall, toward the north. Our next major stop was Mývatn, where we explored the cave where Jon Snow lost his virginity in Game of Thrones and wandered through our first geothermal area, with bubbling mud pools and steaming sulfur vents. It felt like stepping onto another planet. But the highlight of the region for us was Leirhnjúkur, another geothermal area, and an old lava field. We arrived at sunset and had the place entirely to ourselves. Walking through the ancient lava fields, and seeing how magma had solidified into stone, left us feeling incredibly small and fragile. It was like a journey back in time, with some rocks still hot to the touch and steam rising from the ground.
Geothermal areas
One of the best things about Iceland and its volcanic activity is the abundance of hot springs. In our first five days alone, we visited four different natural hot pools, often free and without any entrance fees or crowds. It was easy to imagine the Vikings unwinding here after a long raid. These relaxing breaks made it much easier to cope with the unpredictable weather, from rain to winds so strong they almost ripped the car door off its hinges!
Weather
In Iceland, the landscapes change as quickly as the weather. One moment you’re driving through lush green valleys, and the next, you’re surrounded by volcanic rock or towering glaciers. Just as swiftly, the skies can turn from clear blue to thick clouds, bringing rain, wind, or even snow in the blink of an eye.
Speaking of weather, we had to leave Mývatn sooner than planned due to a forecasted snowstorm. The campsite staff told us that the last storm like this was back in June when the roads were closed for days. We didn’t want to get stuck, so we moved on.
…
One of the top spots on our wishlist was the Stuðlagil Canyon, famous for its basalt columns and turquoise-blue water. After days of rain and snow, I braced myself for murky brown water, but we got lucky—the water was as blue as we’d seen in countless Instagram posts.
By now, we had grown quite fond of our little camper, but halfway through the trip, it was time to swap our sleeping bags for a real bed. We stayed at a horse farm in Húsey, a remote spot you wouldn’t just stumble upon by chance. After a long drive down a gravel road with no signs of life, we arrived at the farm, nestled on the coast. It was the perfect place for a night’s rest. We were the only guests, and the next morning, we enjoyed an exclusive horseback ride along the beach, accompanied by a few curious seals.
East
The second half of our road trip took us to the more touristy parts of the East and South. Thankfully, we were blessed with good weather, and one of our biggest wishes came true: we saw the Northern Lights, and not just once, but four nights in a row! My trusty Aurora app became my best friend for checking the best times to watch.
The first time we saw the Northern Lights was at Stokksnes Beach, already one of the most magical places we had visited. That evening, we witnessed the most spectacular sunset, followed by the breathtaking light show of the Aurora Borealis. We made tea, sat back, and savored the moment.
South
Another unforgettable evening awaited us at Jökulsárlón and Diamond Beach. Watching icebergs on the shore was surreal, and as night fell, we were treated to the most vivid Northern Lights display imaginable—greens and purples dancing across the sky like curtains of light. It’s impossible to describe how much we cherished that moment, grateful beyond words for our incredible luck.
A dream trip coming to an end
These are the moments we’ll never forget—moments that have made Iceland a place we’ll always hold dear in our hearts. This land of ice and fire, of glaciers and volcanoes, hot springs and ice caves, is the most thrilling and diverse place I’ve ever visited. And our little camper gave us the freedom to explore these unbelievable sights on our own terms.
Goodbye, Iceland—until we meet again!
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