By Abi McEvoy
Camperstory submission September 2024
The Icelandic sky was an expanse of shifting shades of gray as I buckled into the driver’s seat of the rental car. It was a sleek, white SUV, its rugged design promising adventure beyond the beaten path. With a hum of the engine, I set off from Keflavik towards the city of Reykjavik. I drove into the city and parked by a large lake from where I set off into the city. I walked up the rainbow road and had an authentic Icelandic hotdog from a stand outside. My first campsite right in the city was the perfect place to find my footing and get comfortable with the rooftop tent that I would be staying in for the next week. I was cozy and comfortable and couldn’t wait to truly start my adventure.
My first encounter with Iceland’s wild beauty came on the way to our first campsite at Landmannalaugar. As the car glided through the rain-slicked roads, I marveled at the contrast of the vibrant green moss against the dark volcanic rock formations. The rain had a way of making everything seem more vivid, and I felt a rush of excitement every time the wipers swept across the windshield. I had never seen such a fantastical and diverse landscape. It was amazing to see how much the world around me shifted and changed as I drove further and further into the highlands. As wild horses ran past me through the seemingly endless fields of wild flowers and tall grass, I couldn’t help but feel a connection with the world around me through the car window. That stretch of drive from Reykjavik to Landmannalaugar was the first time I really knew that this place was special.
At Landmannalaugar, I pulled into a small parking area, the car’s headlights cutting through the mist. Stepping out, I was immediately struck by the land’s raw beauty. The mountains were astonishing and nothing like I had ever seen before. As I walked along the path towards the hot pools, there were sheep grazing in the fields and gracefully exploring the surrounding mountains. I set up the rooftop tent and that’s how the car, snugly parked, became a beacon of warmth waiting for my return. I set off from there on a hike up the trails and through a glorious meadow. Every turn led me to something new and unlike anything I had ever seen before.
The next day, I set off towards Geysir, navigating the dirt roads and river crossings with the SUV’s all-wheel drive gripping the gravel confidently. At Geysir, the geothermal activity was in full swing. The Strokkur geyser erupted with a magnificent roar, sending a column of water skyward. From the car, I had a panoramic view of the event, comfortably seated and protected from the cold.
After leaving Geysir, I headed towards the southern coast. The drive to Vik was particularly memorable. I stopped at not one; but four waterfalls along the way. I got some lunch in Vik and then headed back up the coast stopping at Dyrholaey viewpoint where I took a long walk and saw puffins as well as orca whales from atop the cliffs. From there I went to my next campsite at Skogafoss. I parked in the lot and made a delicious dinner with the camping stove that was included in my rental and enjoyed a Vik craft beer in front of the fantastic waterfall.
The next morning I set out bright and early to make it all the way up into the westfjords. My fabulous SUV had proven itself to handle the F-roads superbly and I was excited for the opportunity to really test its limits. As I turned off the ring road and started heading up into the fantastic mountainous farmlands I was thrilled by the intense beauty of the world through my windshield. The SUV’s off-road capabilities were put to the test as I navigated the rough, unpaved roads. When I finally reached my campground after over 7 hours of driving I was beyond excited to curl up in my cozy rooftop tent. After such a long day I was really happy with how easy it was to set up the tent.
Waking up that first morning in the westfjords I couldn’t wait to set out again. I drove all the way to Isafjordur where I had a tasty hot dog as I gassed up the SUV. I drove to the water and caught a boat from there out into the middle of the fjord. The boat was very windy and rainy but I saw so many humpback whales and arctic dolphins. It was such an amazing and beautiful experience. After the whale watching I set out towards my next adventure.
As the trip neared its end, I made one last stop at Melanes campsite for my last night in the westfjords. The car’s GPS led me through winding roads to an amazing golden beach surrounded by cliffs. The sound of the waves crashing against the delicate yellow sand serenaded me into the night through the walls of my tent. When I woke up the following morning, I took a long walk along the beach and hiked up along a small waterfall that fed right into the ocean. I saw three seals basking in the sunshine along the rocks and I took a moment to appreciate the raw, unadulterated natural beauty of this place. I felt truly blessed in that moment for the incredible adventure that I had embarked upon.
Returning to Reykjavik, I reflected on the wild and wonderful journey. My SUV had been more than just a means of transportation; it had been a faithful companion, providing comfort, warmth, and a unique perspective on the stunning landscapes of Iceland. Each adventure, from the geothermal springs to the icy beaches, had been framed by the vehicle’s windows, and every memorable experience had been anchored by its reliable performance.
As I handed back the keys, I felt a pang of nostalgia. The car had not only navigated the diverse terrains of Iceland but had also been a silent witness to the myriad wonders I had encountered. Iceland had been a land of contrasts and surprises, and my trusty rental car had been the perfect vessel for exploring its enchanting mysteries.
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