Driving the Highlands in Iceland: The Complete F-Road Guide

At a Glance: Driving the Highlands

• You need a 4×4 to enter any Highland F-road. Standard camper vans and 2WD vehicles are not permitted.
• F-roads are typically open mid-July to mid-September. Outside that window, most routes are closed or unpassable.
• There is no fuel available in the middle of the Highlands. Fill up before you go.
• No insurance policy covers river crossing damage or underbody damage. If something goes wrong in a river, the cost is yours.
• F26 (Sprengisandsleið) is impassable for standard 4×4 rentals. Super jeeps only.
• Before you head off, register your route with SafeTravel.is. If you have no cell signal and need rescue, it could be the difference between a fast recovery and a long wait.

The Highlands are Iceland’s interior: a vast, roadless expanse of lava fields, glaciers, and geothermal terrain that most visitors never see. While the Ring Road takes you around the country’s edge, the Highlands sit at its heart, accessible only by seasonal F-roads that require a capable vehicle and a degree of preparation most paved-road driving doesn’t demand.

With our 4×4 camper van fleet, getting there is straightforward. The vehicle question is answered. What this guide covers is everything else: when to go, which routes are actually drivable in a rental, where the real risks are, and how to handle them.

If you’re planning an Iceland road trip and considering adding the Highlands to your itinerary, read this before you book.

What Are the Highlands in Iceland?

Weather affects F-road conditions directly. Heavy rain can wash out sections overnight, and rain falling elsewhere can raise river levels on the route you’re planning to cross the following morning. Check road.is for current conditions before you leave, and again the morning you set off. Do not rely on trip reports or photos from previous seasons.

Kjalvegur – F35

F35 is the main Highland route and the most accessible for standard 4×4 rentals. It runs north from Gullfoss through the Kjölur plateau, a high, open expanse sitting between the glaciers Langjökull and Hofsjökull at around 600–700 meters (1,970–2,300 feet), before descending to the junction north of Blönduós: around 168 km (104 miles) in total. The route has been traveled since the age of the Icelandic sagas, when it served as a summer connection between communities in the north and south.

Roughly a third of the way along, a short detour brings you to Hveravellir, the only place in the Highland interior with any real facilities. There’s a natural hot spring pool, basic showers, simple dining, and a campsite. There is no fuel. There is, somewhat unexpectedly, a horse rental. If you’re planning a multi-day crossing, Hveravellir is the natural overnight stop.

Coming off the northern end of F35, you’ll exit near either Blönduós or Varmahlíð, depending on which fork you take after the reservoir at Blöndulón.

For context on the southern starting point, the south Iceland travel guide covers the area around Gullfoss.

Suggested itinerary: 2–3 days on F35

• Day 1: Depart from Gullfoss in the morning. Drive north through the Kjölur plateau, arriving at Hveravellir by mid-afternoon. Camp overnight.
• Day 2: Continue north to Blönduós or Varmahlíð. Use as a base to rest, resupply, and explore the north before continuing your wider itinerary.
• Day 3 (optional): Connect onward from the north, or retrace south via F35 if you’re doing a return loop.

Sprengisandsleið – F26

F26 cuts through the central Highlands between the glaciers Hofsjökull and Vatnajökull. It is a scenic route, but it is not passable in a standard 4×4 rental vehicle. The terrain and river crossings require a super jeep, and attempting F26 in anything less is a serious risk to your safety and your finances.

Note: F26 is not suitable for rental 4×4 vehicles, including the Dacia Duster. Do not attempt this route unless you are in a Super Jeep. If F26 is on your wishlist, it might be best to book a guided Super Jeep Tour.

Fjallabak – F208

F208 is the main access route to Landmannalaugar, one of the most visited destinations in the southern Highlands, known for its geothermal hot springs and rhyolite mountains. The route is passable in a capable 4×4 but includes river crossings, and conditions vary significantly by season. Check road.is before you go.

Note: F208 includes river crossings. Review the river crossing guidance below before attempting this route.

Suggested itinerary: 1–2 days on F208

• Day 1: Drive in from the Ring Road, arriving at Landmannalaugar by early afternoon. Explore the hot springs and rhyolite mountains on foot. Camp overnight at the Landmannalaugar campsite.
• Day 2 (optional): Extend your stay with a longer hike before returning to the Ring Road via F208.

Fjallabak South – F210

F210 is a rougher alternative approach to Landmannalaugar, less frequently driven and more demanding than F208. Road surfaces are harder going, and the route sees less traffic, which matters if you run into difficulty. Not recommended as a first Highland route.

Note: F210 is suitable for experienced Highland drivers only. If this is your first F-road trip, take F208 instead.

Suggested itinerary: 1–2 days on F210

• Day 1: Approach Landmannalaugar from the south via F210. Allow significantly more time than F208 for the same distance. Camp overnight at Landmannalaugar.
• Day 2: Return via F208 for an easier exit, or continue north depending on your wider itinerary.

River Crossings: How to Do It Safely

River crossings are one of the most serious hazards in the Highlands. Before anything else, the insurance position needs to be clear:

Note: No insurance policy covers river crossing damage. Flooded engines, water-damaged electronics, and rescue costs are your liability. This applies to every rental company in Iceland, not just us.

Many Highland river crossings are shallow and straightforward. Others are deeper than they look, with strong currents and uneven beds. The same crossing can change significantly overnight if rain has fallen upstream. Never assume conditions are the same as a photo or trip report you saw online.

If you’re not certain, don’t cross.

Steps for crossing a river:

1. Stop and assess from the bank. Look for the widest, shallowest point, which is usually the safest.
2. Check for tire tracks on both sides. If you only see tracks on your side, they may have been made by a Super Jeep.
3. Wade the river on foot before committing. Yes, it will be cold. Cold feet are cheaper than a flooded engine.
4. If the water is above ankle depth or the current is strong, turn around and find another route.
5. Engage 4×4 mode before you enter the water. Select a low gear and maintain a slow, steady speed. 
6. Do not brake, do not change gear, and do not stop mid-crossing. Once you’re in, keep moving at a consistent pace.
7. Keep the engine running for a few minutes on the other side to allow any water near the engine to evaporate from the heat.
8. Check your brakes are responding normally before continuing.

Off-Road Driving and Environmental Rules

Off-road driving is illegal in Iceland, and the Highlands are no exception. Getting caught carries a significant fine, but the fine is not the point. The vegetation you see up here has taken decades to establish itself in one of Europe’s harshest environments. A single tire track can kill plants that have been growing for 50 years, and those tracks can remain visible for decades afterwards. The damage is effectively permanent on a human timescale.

The same principle applies to everything you bring in. Litter decomposes extremely slowly at Highland temperatures, so anything you carry in comes back out with you. Use garbage bins at campsites or dispose of waste in the next village or rest stop on your way out.

Cellphone Coverage in the Highlands

Coverage in the Highlands is patchy at best and nonexistent in large parts of the interior

The practical implication is simple: you cannot rely on being able to call for help if something goes wrong. Plan as if you will have no signal for the duration of your Highland crossing.

The most important thing you can do before you leave is register your travel plan on SafeTravel.is. Fill in your route, dates, and expected arrival times. If you don’t check in as planned, search and rescue will know where to start looking.

Also, download the 112 app before you go. Even without cell coverage, the app can send your GPS location to the emergency response center by text. If you have no signal at all, search and rescue helicopters carry cell receivers that can locate your phone as they fly, provided your phone is on, and you have a registered travel plan. The app is available for iOS and Android and is rated 4.6. You can find it listed in our travel apps for Iceland guide.

Sand, Dust and Ash Storms

The Highland interior is extremely dry during rainless periods, and dust is a constant problem on unpaved roads. When you pass another vehicle, or one passes you, slow down significantly. Both vehicles throw up dust and loose stones, and under that dust are sharp rocks that can shred a tire without warning. Dusty roads are also more slippery than they look.

Sand and ash storms do occur in the Highlands and can reduce visibility severely. If you’re caught in one, slow down and pull over somewhere safe until it passes.

The insurance position here is important:

• Sand, ash, and gravel damage is only covered if you have purchased the Sand and Ash Protection (SAAP) or Premium Protection (PiP) insurance. Without it, you carry the full cost of any damage to paintwork and exterior surfaces.
• Underbody damage is not covered by any insurance policy, regardless of what protection you have purchased. This applies across all rental companies in Iceland. Drive slowly on rough surfaces and pick your lines carefully.

Both of these are worth understanding before you reach the Highlands, not after something goes wrong. For more information on insurance, see our terms and conditions. 

Camping in the Highlands

The Highland interior is as remote as it looks on the map. There are no towns, no gas stations mid-route, and no immediate assistance available if something goes wrong. Fill your tank completely before entering the Highlands, and carry enough food and water for longer than you think you’ll need.

Spending nights up here during the summer window is one of the more memorable parts of an Iceland trip, not because of any particular facility but because of the absence of everything else. You will have the landscape largely to yourself.

Where you can camp: If you’re traveling in a 4×4 camper van, you should plan to stay in designated campsites. Wild camping in camper vans and motorhomes is generally prohibited in Iceland unless you have explicit permission from the landowner. In the Highlands, campsites are limited, and facilities are basic, so plan your overnight stops in advance.

Highland winds can be violent: open doors one at a time in strong winds, and look for natural shelter where possible. When parking overnight, make sure your vehicle does not obstruct traffic or damage fragile vegetation.

Water: You can drink directly from clear Highland streams and rivers. Do not drink water with a milky appearance: that indicates glacial meltwater, which is not safe to drink.

Waste: Dig a hole for human waste and fill it when you’re done. All other trash comes out with you. Use garbage bins at campsites, or hold onto waste until you reach a village or rest stop on the way out.

The only place in the Highland interior with any real amenities is Hveravellir, roughly a third of the way along F35. Hot spring pool, basic showers, simple dining, and a campsite. No fuel. If you’re planning a multi-day route and want one guaranteed stopping point, that’s it.

For a broader overview of camping options across Iceland, the camping in Iceland guide covers designated sites around the country. Make sure you’ve sorted fuel before you head in: the gas stations in Iceland guide shows where to fill up near the Highland entry points.

Driving the Iceland Highlands is one of the most rewarding ways to see Iceland beyond the Ring Road, but it takes the right preparation. Choose a capable 4×4, travel within the summer F-road season, check road.is before you go, and register your route with SafeTravel.is.

For most travelers, F35 is the best first Highland route. Avoid F26 unless you’re in a Super Jeep, and never take chances with river crossings.

Ready to go beyond the Ring Road? Explore our 4×4 camper vans or check availability for your Iceland road trip dates.

Frequently Asked Questions about Iceland’s Highlands

Do I need a special license to drive F-roads in Iceland? 

No special license is required. A standard driver’s license valid in your home country is sufficient. What you do need is the right vehicle: a 4×4 is a legal requirement on all F-roads, and no license category substitutes for that.

Can I drive the Highlands in a standard 4×4 SUV rental rather than a camper van? 

Yes, vehicle type is less important than drivetrain. Any capable 4×4 with adequate ground clearance can handle F35 and F208. The advantage of a 4×4 camper van is self-sufficiency: with no facilities mid-route, having your sleeping and cooking setup with you removes a significant logistical problem.

Are there toilets or shower facilities anywhere in the Highlands? 

The only place in the Highland interior with shower facilities is Hveravellir, roughly a third of the way along F35. Some designated campsites at the edges of the Highlands have basic facilities. Outside of these, plan accordingly.

Can I drive the Highlands without prior off-road experience? 

F35 is manageable for a careful, prepared driver without prior off-road experience, provided conditions are good, and you stick to the route. What matters more than experience is judgment: knowing when to stop, when to turn around, and not taking chances with river crossings or weather. If this is your first time on F-roads, stick to F35, travel with another vehicle if possible, and avoid F208 unless you are confident with river crossings.

Can I combine the Highlands with the Ring Road on a two-week trip? 

Yes, and it works well as a contrast. The most practical approach is to use F35 as a north-south crossing mid-trip, entering from Gullfoss in the south and exiting near Blönduós or Varmahlíð in the north, then continuing around the Ring Road from there. Two weeks gives you enough time to do this without rushing either part of the trip. The Iceland road trip guide covers how to structure the wider itinerary.

What should I sort out before I arrive in Iceland? 

Three things that are worth doing before you land rather than after: confirm your vehicle is a capable 4×4 and that your insurance includes SAAP or PiP cover for Highland driving; download the 112 app; and set up your SafeTravel.is travel plan for any Highland days on your itinerary. The SafeTravel registration takes about five minutes and is the single most useful safety step you can take before heading into the interior.