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The landscape is shaped by erosion as much as volcanism, and in the Ice Age glacial action gouged out Breiðafjörður bay, with its innumerable islands, and formed the fjords and valleys of the West Fjords peninsula, where waterfalls cascade down steep mountain slopes.

The birdlife of the region is also varied. Breiðafjörður is a mecca for birdwatchers, who may even spot the monarch of Icelandic birds, the white-tailed eagle. In the West Fjords are the three largest birdcliffs in Europe: the largest of them, Látrabjarg, is at the western-most point of Europe.

In olden times West Iceland and Breiðafjörður were flourishing agricultural regions with plentiful food resources. Many of the Icelandic sagas took place here and in the West Fjords. Historic sites in the region include Reykholt, home of the medieval chieftain/scholar Snorri Sturluson, and the town of Borgarnes with its Settlement Centre, where visitors can see two exhibitions featuring audio-taped narrative: one on the settlement of Iceland, and the other on Egill Skallagrímsson, one of the most colourful personalities of the Age of Settlement. Another intriguing destination is the reconstructed saga age farmstead at Eiríksstaðir, home of Erik the Red. Eiríksstaðir is also reputed to be the birthplace of Eiríkur’s son Leif the Lucky, who found the New World.

Two universities in Borgarfjörður have been growing rapidly in recent years: the Bifröst School of Business and the Agricultural University at Hvanneyri.

Through the centuries, the West Fjords have been primarily a fishing region, but today large areas are uninhabited, such as the wild Hornstrandir, which attracts many holidaymakers. Visitors can learn about the history of the region at the Ósvör maritime museum at Bolungarvík and the Maritime Museum in Ísafjörður, and also on organised hikes to historic sites.

Westfjords

West Iceland and the Westfjords are two completely distinct regions, historically and geologically, with characters all of their own and abounding in contrasts too.  Almost all visitors to the Westfjords go to West Iceland first and either heading by road for the looping fjord coast or the Strandir shore, or skirting the southern Westfjords after arriving by road or ferry.  Whichever route is taken, it presents a stunning cross-section of scenery and culture.

The Westfjords are Iceland´s most sparsely populated region apart from the highlands.  There, life means seabirds on rugged cliffs, Arctic foxes in their lairs, and little fishing villages huddled against sheer mountains where for centuries people have battled with the forces of nature to harvest the ocean´s riches.  Ísafjörður is the main town, regional centre for services, scene of plenty of social and cultural activities and starting-point for many tours.

Contrasts abound in the Westfjords.  Land meets sea head-on at the 1300 foot sheer cliff of Látrabjarg, the westernmost point of Europe and one of the world´s biggest seabird colonies. Hornstrandir nature reserve on the region´s northern edge is both breathtakingly raw and astonishingly rich in vegetation, on the rim of the inhabitable world.  Relics from life in other once-thriving outposts can be seen in places such as the now abandoned herring centre of Djúpavík.

Other musts to see are Dynjandi waterfall spreading in steps down the mountainside, and the bird-lovers´ paradice of Vigur, a tiny island where time seems to stand still.

In olden times, the Westfjords were renowned for wizards and sorcerers, and Hólmavík hosts an exhibition on witchcraft and witch hunts - one of several in the region devoted to unusual themes.

North-Iceland

Flourishing villages and farming com-munities, soaring mountain peaks, off-shore islands and a landscape in forma-tion make the North of Iceland a unique world of its own.
In the western part of the region, volcanic forces are no longer active, and since the end of the Ice Age the landscape has been moulded by rivers into smooth hills interspersed with some of Iceland’s finest angling rivers.

On either side of Eyjafjörður rise high, ancient mountain ranges opening here and there into valleys, and in the north, marine erosion has created splendid cliffs. This area is popular with mountain hikers.

The Midnight Sun is an extraordinary spectacle in these northern latitudes: around the summer solstice, the sun sinks down to touch the horizon before rising again in breathtaking tones of red and gold.

Farther east, other forces are at work: fresh lava flows, fissures and gullies are clues to recent volcanic activity. It is only a little over twenty years since the last eruption in the geothermal area adjacent to Mt. Krafla, and the unrest in the earth continues.

In ancient times a catastrophic glacial flood smashed through rock to gouge out the canyon of the river Jökulsá á Fjöllum and the huge sunken valley Ásbyrgi, which now form a magnificent National Park. Just a short distance away is the beautiful Lake Mývatn, famous for its picturesque natural surroundings, geothermal activity, and unique birdlife.

Most of the lowland areas have been inhabited since time immemorial by farmers and fishermen. In recent times remote spots such as the region east of Eyjafjörður, and Melrakkaslétta and Langanes in the far northeast, have become largely uninhabited, but they remain popular with travellers in search of peace and unspoiled nature.

Tourist services in the region reflect aspects of local history and ways of life. In Húnavatnssýsla and Skagafjörður visitors can see the sites of many of the important events in the classic Icelandic sagas. Seals can be observed at play offshore; the Selasetur seal center in Hvammstangi is an excellent place to gain insight into seals and their way of life.

 Whales can be spotted off Eyjafjörður and Skjálfandi bay, and Húsavík is home to a whale museum. In the first half of the 20th century, the “Herring Boom” brought unprecedented prosperity to many Icelanders, and the atmosphere of those times is recreated at Siglufjörður, one of the leading herring ports of the time. Another interesting destination is Hafíssetur, the pack ice exhibition in Blönduós, where visitors can learn about “the land’s ancient enemy” through a graphic and text exhibition.

Over the centuries, Icelanders relied on the horse for all transport and farm work, and Skagafjörður is especially famous for its horses and equestrian traditions, while horseback riding tours are available all over the north. Skagafjörður also offers the thrills of white-water rafting, and at the Icelandic Emigration Centre in Hofsós visitors can learn about emigration to the New World in the 19th century, when 20% of the population headed west in search of a better life.

The Capital of the North is Akureyri, a centre of education, culture and services in Eyjafjörður fjord. Akureyri has a full summer programme of events, arts, entertainment and activities.

East-Iceland

There are few places in Iceland where a human being feels as small and help-less as in the vicinity of Vatnajökull, Europe’s largest glacier. Everything here is on a grand scale: the lofty mass of the ice cap, the spectacular moun-tain peaks, and all the signs of volcanic activity beneath the ice.

But it is not only the craggy, rugged beauty of the region that is appealing. In places such as Lónsöræfi, Borgarfjörður eystri and elsewhere, the landscape exhibits an extraordinary palette of colours. In the realm of Vatnajökull, the land is greener, the glacier whiter, the volcanic sands blacker than elsewhere. This otherworldly environment has become a popular location for international film-makers and advertisers.

At the foot of the great glacier lies Skaftafell National Park, founded in 1967; this was Iceland’s first National Park founded purely for its nature (Þingvellir National Park has major cultural significance). Skaftafell is a popular tourist destination, with a full programme of events for visitors. The Visitor Centre informs visitors about the remarkable natural environment of the park, while at Höfn in Hornafjörður there is a glacier exhibition. Activities include sightseeing cruises among the ice floes on the Breiðamerkurjökull glacial lagoon, and trips up onto the glacier.

The southeast boasts a wide variety of birdlife, as most migrant birds arrive here, and many vagrant species are also carried here from mainland Europe.

But the east of Iceland has more to offer than the splendours of the Vatnajökull glacier. The East Fjords are a magnificent landscape of long, narrow fjords, steep mountains and jagged peaks. This is one of the oldest regions of Iceland, which was shaped by glaciers in the Ice Age. Glacial action uncovered magma chambers that had been about 3 km beneath the surface, where zeolites had formed. These beautiful rocks can now be seen along the coast; e.g., at Teigarhorn.

The more remote fjords are now mostly uninhabited, but hiking tours are available throughout these deserted regions of high mountain ridges and verdant valleys. Off the shore are grassy islands that can be visited by boat.

In the Hérað district, in the north of the East Fjords, the landscape is different. Vegetation flourishes in this sheltered, sunny region. The town of Egilsstaðir is the hub of the East, offering a wide range of services for visitors. Farther north the landscape changes yet again: fine angling rivers flow among undulating hills.

The East Fjords have many natural harbours, and in the 19th century this led to the development of fishing villages, most of which still exist. These seaside communities have a special charm, and many of them have town festivals every year. A number of museums in the East Fjords focus on various aspects of local history: World War II, French fishermen who fished off Iceland a century ago, local artists and technology. Other exhibitions highlight nature: the region’s beautiful minerals, and the reindeer that roam the eastern highlands.

South and Southwest of Iceland

Nowhere on earth is the junction be-tween the European and American tec-tonic plates in the Earth’s crust as clear as on the Reykjanes peninsula in the southwest, and at Þingvellir: the plates diverge here by as much as an inch per year. But the gap is constantly being filled, as volcanoes have been erupting regularly throughout Iceland’s history.

Several high-temperature geothermal areas are found on the Reykjanes peninsula, two of which have been harnessed to generate electricity, at Svartsengi and Hengill. A further two geothermal power stations are currently under construction: Hellisheiði Power Station and Reykjanes Power Station. At Svartsengi, the Gjáin visitor centre explains geological history, and nearby is the Blue Lagoon spa, whose mineral-rich waters are internationally known for their curative powers.

 From early times, habitation on the Reykjanes peninsula has been confined to the coast, and the population lived by the fisheries. Museums in Grindavík, Sandgerði, and other locations uphold the region’s seafaring traditions.

Farther east, history echoes in every footstep: this is where the Saga of Njáll, one of the most famous Icelandic sagas, took place. The Icelandic Saga Centre in Hvolsvöllur tells the story. Other museums in the region include the Skógar Museum, one of Iceland’s leading folk museums; and Draugasetrið, the Ghost Centre at Stokkseyri, a unique museum dedicated to the phenomenon of the Icelandic ghost.

Þingvellir is by far Iceland’s most famous historic site. The Alþingi, or general assembly, first met there in A.D.930, and continued to do so for nearly nine centuries, until 1798. Various important events in the Icelandic Sagas took place at Þingvellir, and in 1930 it was declared a National Park. In 2004 Þingvellir was added to the UNESCO World Heritage List.

Not far away is the old episcopal seat of Skálholt, which was the centre of the church and Christianity in Iceland from the mid-11th century until the end of the 18th.

 But the region has other attractions: places of outstanding natural beauty include magnificent waterfalls, of which Gullfoss (Golden Falls) is the best known. In many geothermal areas villages have grown up, where exotic fruits and vegetables are grown in greenhouses heated by hot springs.

The best known hot spring is Geysir, from which derives the English word  “geyser” for spouting hot springs: the big Geysir is surrounded by many more springs of all shapes and sizes.

A little farther east are two of Iceland’s most active volcanoes. Mt. Hekla has erupted about 20 times in Icelandic history, and Mt. Katla, under the Mýrdalsjökull glacier, is almost as active. Many years have now passed since Mt. Katla last erupted, and according to geoscientists it is overdue for another eruption.

Tourists in the region can experience its varied and picturesque natural landscape through such activities as horseback riding, white-water rafting, and glacier trips.

Just off the south coast are the Westman Islands, with their impressive natural beauty, abundant birdlife, and eventful history. A little over 30 years ago the islanders were forced to abandon their homes on Heimaey island when a new volcano erupted on the edge of the town. But they returned as soon as the eruption died down, and visitors can see the effects of this natural disaster on the island and its inhabitants. Currently underway is the excavation of several homes that were buried by pumice and lava, with the intention of making them accessible to visitors under the auspices of a project called Pompeii of the North.

The Highlands

If you really want to get away from it all, the interior of Iceland is like nothing you have ever experienced. The moun-tainous centre of the island, with its rocky deserts, jagged mountain peaks, ice caps, volcanoes, hidden valleys and hot springs, is an awe-inspiring and un-touched wilderness.

In the geothermal area of Landmannalaugar, nature has painted the rhyolite mountains in yellows, greens and reds interspersed with shiny black obsidian, and weary travellers can bathe in natural hot rivers.

At Kverkfjöll, steam rising at the edge of the glacier has melted bizarre ice caves. In the Dyngjufjöll mountains, the lake Öskjuvatn is situated in a large caldera (4.2 sq miles), and the crater Víti is filled with warm water. Both lakes were created in the wake of a gigantic eruption in the Dyngjufjöll mountains in 1875. The green, sheltered inland valley of Þórsmörk is a favourite with travellers, who camp here and hike into the surrounding mountains. Lake Hvítárvatn on the Kjölur highland road glints icy-blue at the foot of the Langjökull glacier, and in the barren black sands of Sprengisandur the arctic river beauty blooms bright magenta in August.

The interior was long all but inaccessible. Outlaws hid for years at a time in the highlands, rustling sheep and keeping away from law-abiding citizens, while folklore tells of both natural and supernatural beings who lie in wait for unwary highland travellers.

Travellers between north and south sometimes had to cross the highlands: for instance, for the national assembly of Alþingi (parliament) each summer, delegates had to ride from every corner of the country to Þingvellir in the southwest. But journeys across the interior were never undertaken lightly; such travel was always risky, and lives were often lost. Weather in the interior is always unpredictable, and fast-flowing glacial rivers are difficult obstacles.

Today the interior is traversed by two mountain roads, via Kjölur and Sprengisandur, which are only open in summer, after the snow has thawed in the spring.

While the Kjölur road is classified as passable by ordinary vehicles, it is still a rough road where four-wheel drive is useful, and for the Sprengisandur road an SUV is a necessity. Most highland routes, including the road into Þórsmörk and the Landmannalaugar road, involve crossing unbridged rivers, which should not be attempted without advice, and preferably travelling in convoy with other vehicles. Please note that if you rent a car, you cannot take it on a mountain road (classified F) unless it is a 4-wheel drive vehicle.

But the wonders of the highlands can also be seen by scheduled buses and on organised tours: mountain buses and guided tours run regularly across the Kjölur and Sprengisandur roads and to such destinations as Þórsmörk, Landmannalaugar, Mt. Askja and Kverkfjöll. Hiking tours are offered to many of the most popular locations in the interior; on some tours luggage is even transported from place to place, so travellers carry only a light day-pack. And one of the most memorable ways to see the highlands is on horseback, riding into the wide-open spaces, far from all human habitation.

Travel to the Central Highlands is limited to summertime - check the Public Roads Administration website www.vegagerdin.is/english to find out exactly which roads are open when.  Enquire about the state of highland roads before you set off, tell someone about your plans - and don´t take risks